Vestpillaren direct: one of the most iconic climbing routes on Presten

THE HISTORY

The Vestpillaren direct route was first climbed in 1978 by the Norwegian duo Hans Christian Doseth and Håkon Hansen, marking a milestone in traditional climbing in Lofoten. 

Since then, this line has become one of Norway's most celebrated routes, attracting climbers from around the world due to its beauty, technical challenges, and exposed position. Its 12-pitch line follows a logical path through cracks and slabs, culminating in an unforgettable experience.

THE EXPERIENCE

With approximately 450 meters of vertical climbing, Vestpillaren Direct is a classic challenge for intermediate to advanced climbers seeking adventure on alpine terrain. The route stands out for its variety of styles:

- Technical crack pitches that test traditional climbing skills.

- Exposed slab sections requiring precision and focus.

- A panoramic view upon reaching the summit, rewarding the effort of the ascent.

Although not suitable for beginners, Vestpillaren Direct is accessible to climbers comfortable leading at grades around 6a+ (5.10b/c) in traditional climbing. Familiarity with placing gear and solid planning is essential, as both the approach and descent involve navigation through mountain terrain.

With its combination of history, technical challenge, and stunning surroundings, Vestpillaren Direct is more than a climbing route: it’s a journey into the heart of Lofoten’s alpine spirit.